How to measure for made-to-measure curtains
Made-to-measure curtains are built around your window, but the dimensions on the order form describe the finished curtains rather than the glass. Width, drop, heading type and the way the panels stack all affect the result. Measuring with a little care avoids curtains that are too short, cannot close properly or crowd the window.
That matters across very different Australian homes. A compact Sydney apartment may have sliding doors and a ceiling recess, while a Melbourne terrace can have sash windows, decorative ceilings and floors that fall away from the wall. The basic method is straightforward; the judgement comes in choosing the right drop and hanging system.
Use this guide as a worksheet rather than a substitute for the maker’s specifications. Take measurements in centimetres or millimetres, photograph each window and label its dimensions. You can then compare options confidently, ask for a written quote and make any adjustments before an order is cut.
Start with the hanging system
Begin by deciding whether the curtains will hang from a ceiling track, a wall-mounted track or a pole. Measure the track or pole itself, not the window opening: curtains usually sit outside or above the glass to block more light. Note whether each panel runs on its own section or whether a central pair shares one track.
The heading changes the amount of fabric gathered into the folds. Eyelet curtains need less fullness than double pinch pleats, while wave and ripple headings have their own compression. Choose a heading that suits the track and the fabric’s weight, then ask the supplier for the fullness and heading allowance used in its calculations.
Collect tools and understand the window
You need a rigid metal tape, paper, a pencil, a step stool and clear photographs taken in daylight. A flexible cloth tape can stretch, and a phone photo is useful for checking the window rather than relying on memory. Record the opening width and height, the sill depth, any arch or bay, and whether doors, vents or furniture restrict the hanging space.
Measure each dimension in at least three places. Older windows are often slightly out of square, so the widest and narrowest readings matter. If a bay has separate panes, measure each section unless a continuous curved track is being considered. Mark doors that open towards the curtains, since they can catch a stack.
Take the width and drop
For the overall width, measure the usable track from its left end to its right end, including any overlap at the centre. Measure the pair’s total finished width across both panels, then check how much overlap will remain when closed. For a single panel, allow for its own finished width plus the centre overlap; don’t confuse that with the fabric quantity needed for the heading.
For the drop, measure from the top edge of the finished curtain to the intended hem, not from the ceiling to the floor. Decide whether the hem should touch the floor, stop just above it or follow a sill. Check high points and low points of the floor, and specify the drop from the heading rather than adding an arbitrary gap later.
Record every finished size in a simple sketch: window width, track width, finished curtain width, drop and heading position. Take a second set of measurements on another day if possible. Before ordering, cross-check the notes with the supplier’s specification sheet and this measuring reference so a missing dimension has not slipped through.
Compare the main sizing choices
The figures below are useful for comparing headings, but they are planning ranges rather than cutting instructions. Fullness means the finished curtain width compared with the track length. Your supplier may use a different ratio, especially for a heavy fabric, a specific track or a particular heading tape.
| Curtain heading | Usual fullness | Approximate extra at heading per panel | Check before ordering |
|---|---|---|---|
| Eyelet | 1.5–2 times track length | 0–5 cm | Measure the spacing between eyelets |
| Tab top | 1.5–2 times track length | 10–15 cm | Match the tabs to the heading size |
| Pinch pleat | 2–2.5 times track length | 15–20 cm | Confirm the finished pleat dimensions |
| Wave or ripple | 2–2.5 times track length | 20–30 cm | Match the track to the heading |
| Double pinch pleat | 2.5–3 times track length | 25–35 cm | Allow enough stacking space |
The drop does not change simply because the heading changes; it still runs from the top of the finished curtain to the hem. What changes is how much fabric is used at the top. Ask whether the quoted price includes heading tape, lining, weighted hems and any track, then check that the chosen fullness suits the depth of your window reveal.
Allow for Australian homes and conditions
Australian conditions deserve a place in the calculation. Brisbane Queenslanders often have large, west-facing windows and deep verandahs, so UV-resistant lining and a full-width drop can be more useful than a narrow decorative panel. Melbourne terraces may have uneven floors beneath tall sash windows, making a little extra drop or an adjustable hem sensible.
Homes in coastal Perth and other salt-air locations also call for suitable hardware and easy-clean linings. Summer heat can drive demand for curtains that block glare while still admitting light, whereas winter evenings favour lined or blackout options. Check the track’s projection so fabric does not rub against the wall or window.
Metric sizing is standard here: people usually order lengths in millimetres or centimetres, while dress fabric is commonly sold by the metre. Australians also tend to describe a coordinated set as a pair of curtains, and its drop as the finished length. If buying from an overseas online retailer, request a written quote that shows currency, freight and production terms before paying.
Check the track, fixings and working space
A track that measures correctly can still fail if it has nowhere to stack. Check the wall or ceiling space beside the opening, the depth needed for folds and the clearance required by a doorway. Long curtains can rub a wall when drawn back, and a track that bends too tightly may not operate smoothly.
For a bespoke order, the maker’s background matters. Dickinson’s history describes a family-run furnishing business established in 1878 and the roles of its designers, seamstresses and fitters. Their experience can be valuable when unusual windows or a restricted hanging space complicate the order.
The store is UK-based, so Australian customers should confirm delivery, duties and the availability of remote fitting before committing. A local fitter may be more practical than a shipped track, while the curtains themselves can often be specified through careful measurements and a clear plan.
Record and confirm your measurements
Send a measurement schedule that somebody else can interpret without guessing. Include one labelled drawing or photo set per window, the track and curtain widths, the finished drops, the heading style and the intended hem. State whether each figure is a finished size or a cut size, because that distinction affects everything else.
- Photograph every window with its label visible, including the sill and surrounding wall.
- Record the widest, narrowest and highest measurements where a window is irregular.
- Confirm the finished drop and hem position in millimetres.
- Check that the heading, fullness and track are compatible.
- Keep a copy of the approved quote, fabric choice and final measurements.
- Ask the maker to flag any dimension outside the chosen design’s limits.
Read the quote against your schedule and resolve differences before production starts. Keep the final measurements for future reorders, replacements or house moves, especially for a distinctive heritage window. If a fitter is attending, agree who checks the floor clearance and whether a higher or lower drop is acceptable on site.